The Dorrego Flea Market  or « Mercado de la Pulgas » in Spanish, is today the biggest antique market of Buenos Aires. After five years of modernization it is now a well organized market place.
In the past, until 2006 it twas a maze to get lost in finding treasures coming from the high and middle Argentinan classes often ruined by the numerous crises the country has known. 

Gone are the days of searching and searching until you found something you could not have imagined finding there.
The market today is organized around 150 booths overs 13400 square meters.
Products such as glassware, furniture, brass-ware, clothes, pictures, cameras, mirrors, books, can be found there.
The market is at five minutes by taxi from La Onda, our Buenos Aires apartment.

Francis Alÿs is a Belgian artist living in Mexico since 1986.  He is deeply involved in political and social aspects and particularly in the thematics of development, frontiers and migrations. His multimedia work includes video, painting, postcards, slideshows, installations, performatic interventions, documentary films, sculpture.
 
« Relato de Una Negociacion » is an international exhibition organized by the Museo Tamayo in Mexico and showing now at the Museo de Arte Latino americano de Buenos Aires. 

The exhibition presents three of the artist’s projects: Tornado (2000–2010), Don’t cross the bridge before you get to the river (2008), and Reel – Unreel (2011).
 
In these three series produced over nearly a decade, you will see a beautiful installation of  machine gun feeded by film tapes, a reflection about the power of media :
 
Photo mitraillettes
 

A video also presents a performance held with young Africans seeming to cross the sea with the same would be flip-flop embarcations

We liked at most this exhibition which is a kind of « promenade » in the world’s hottest actuality seen from another point of vue, very personal, humain, artistic.
 
The Malba is easily accessible from our house La Onda.
 
Until February 16, 2016.

The tango is a part of the identity of Buenos Aires and so it is also a part of its « touristic industry ». You will find in the Argentine capital all kind of shows from the well-regulated professional spectacles to the intimate concert not forgetting the milongas (tango balls ) where the Argentines from all classes come and meet to practice.

 

Tango Porteno is a modern show according to the contemporary style of the Madero Tango venue where it occurs. It is located in Puerto Madero, the latest built district of the city with its glass and metal towers. It is originated from the complete reshaping of the old wood docks. The building was created in a minimalist style with huge windows Ta the harbor. The Tango Porteno show is performed by high-level dancers generally trained in classic ballet schools and although far from the tango practiced in the traditional milongas, it is worth seeing. You will also enjoy a 5 courses dinner and beautiful night views on the water and on the iconic lighted cranes of Puerto Madero. Rates: from 99 US $. Christmas and New Year : 40 % discount.

Puerto Madero is easily accessible from La Onda by direct bus 25'ou by taxi. 

La Esquina Carlos Gardel is located in a typical street of Abasto, the old " barrio "                     (neighborhood) where  Carlos Gardel, the famous tango singer and composer made ​​his beginnings. The venue is close to the impressive " Abasto " shopping mall remarkable for its art deco architecture. In this space that recreates the cabaret atmosphere of the 30’s, you will admire a live orchestra and more than 20 artists. The show itself is a tribute to Carlos Gardel. Rates range from 75 to 199 US $. Abasto is very well connected and easily accessible from La Onda by bus or subway.

While also a traditional tango neighborhood, San Telmo is more touristy and more trendy than Abasto. In an old typical porteño house you will find the most emotional tango bar, El Viejo Almacen ( « Old Store »). The place as the show are very intimate. Sitting in an old armchair close to the dancers you will feel like in the 50’s.

Off the beaten tracks: Cafe Montserrat

Much more than a dance, tango is a state of mind, a popular culture that express itself in a large variety of songs. You can go and listen to authentic porteno tango singers and musicians at Cafe Montserrat, a small bar in Congresso downtown. The place is frequented by true Argentine connoisseurs. The atmosphere is warm and full of simplicity. As there are few tables it is better to make a reservation.

Cafe Montserrat San Jose 584 Congresso

Tel. : 4383-8791 

Finding tasty and good bread has long been almost impossible in Buenos Aires but recently new bakeries did open, often held by French expatriates or spin off from European bakeries chain.
Near La Onda , we are fortunate to have two of those bakeries that not only provide  baguettes and croissants but where you can also lunch  throughout the day with excellent sandwiches and delicious salads .  

Finally on Armenia at number 1540 is one of the most famous pastries of Buenos Aires,   Nucha . 
The cakes are spectacular and really good without unfortunately reaching the finesse encountered in Europe. All day long fashion addicts from the neighborhood come  and enjoy cupcakes and chocolates.

Originated in Mexique, the wording « La Onda » appeared in the language of young people in Mexico in the sixties to designate a plan, a mood, a state of mind. The word and the culture (see below) has spread throughout Latin America including Argentina.

Today « la onda » is also synonymous of fashion, trend: "estar en la onda" means "estar de moda", to be on trend.

It also means "cool." « La buena onda" is used to speak of a nice atmosphere, a good feeling, the good vibrations that you feel in a neighborhood, a house, a place.

More generally, "Que onda? is a slang synonym of " Qué tal? " and is used colloquially to greet a person by asking how she/he is. It is the equivalent of the English "How do you do? ". It also means "What's Up? »

In Mexico and its area and especially in the close United States, the sixties were the time of the cultural revolution of young people, along with the sexual revolution, the freedom of speach, the rock and roll and the hippy movement. In Mexique this new form of bohemia was named "Onda".
The young borrowed their language not only to the popular speech of Mexico, the one of the gangsters and of the hot neighbourhoods, but also to the "Spanglish", the Spanish spoken in the northern border of Mexique. This new way of speaking  created new words made from American slang and by giving new significations or new grammatical forms to pre-existing words. It invented many puns often of a sexual nature. This transgressive form of speech, sometimes scurrilous was of course considered vulgar by people who did not belong to this bohemian culture. It was claimed by the young people themselves as a sign of differentiation and of belonging to a group.

"La Onda" is also the name of a Mexican literary movement of the 60’s, represented by Gustavo Sainz and Jose Agustin. This movement broke with the magical realism of the prestigious Latin American literature of the 30’s and was characterized by the predominence of young heroes. It was using familiar and mocking language with a casual and irreverent tone. 

The same trends can be found in the spoken language of Buenos Aires, extremely colourful and full of humor. This kind of popular speech already existed since the 30’s with the « lunfardo », the language spoken in the port and that you can find also in the tango culture. As la onda, the lunfardo incorporated many words and phrases from other languages such as the French and Italian spoken by immigrants.

Located in Palermo Soho, the trendy neighbourhood with its fashion boutiques, bars, restaurants, art galleries, La Onda is a house dedicated to travelers who have chosen to live in tune with the Argentine culture while offering a chic, trendy and relaxing atmosphere (onda).

 

http://www.whitehousevacationrentals.com/in-two-words3.html

As you probably know, Buenos Aires is the Mecca of tango.  Music and dance were born here. If you want to have a short introduction to tango history or wish  to know were to watch tango or learn how to dance, these pages are here to help. Please feel free to add your comments in our different posts related to tango.

Both music and dance were born in the mid-nighty century, probably amid the working class in the port of La Bocca and in the bars and brothels of the suburbs. Argentina is a big country of immigration and as the Argentinian culture itself, the tango is a mix of influences. The music takes its roots from the rhythms of  African former slaves of the Rio de la Plata and from the instruments and music of  European immigrants (waltz, polka, mazurka). Lyrics reflect the loneliness, the despair, the poverty, the sense of loss of the exiles and became part of the Argentinian culture. Tango dance is originated from Argentinian milonga and candombe, themselves influenced by the polka,  the african dances and by a type of the Spanish flamenco called « tango ».

Tango came to France brought by rich Argentinian young men coming for their studies in Europe. Even if the tango was not admitted in the Argentinian high society, some of its youngsters who frequented the tango bars had learned how to dance. The Parisians were rapidly seduced and then  tango became a rage in Europe as a whole, seducing even its hight  society. As Paris had a big cultural influence on  Argentinian society, Buenos Aires followed the trend and the tango reached a larger audience in the « Portena » capital. The 40’s were tango’s golden age with many dance styles and plenty of ballrooms everywhere in the city.

In 1955 the military regime persecuted tango as a symbol of the popular culture encouraged by Peron, the former populist president. Many artists compromised with Peron were blacklisted or put in jail. Sometimes the meetings of more than 3 persons were declared illegal so the milongas had no other solution than going underground. Another problem for tango dancers was that the minors did were not allowed in nightclubs, excepting rock and roll discotheques. So the young generation ceased learning and dancing tango and rather made theirs rock and roll, a lot easier to learn. So  tango almost disappeared from Buenos Aires but stayed alive in Paris where Argentinian exiles started to appear in shows and open classes.

The tango made an Argentinan come back in the 80’s after the fall of dictatorship. There was a frenzy of feasts and night life. Former exiles came back from Paris. People went back to tango classes and milongas. The dance evolved under new influences, integrating contemporary  and international trends like rock’n roll, classic contemporary dance or even fitness. This « tango nuevo » is often very spectacular and sometimes almost acrobatic, very successful by young people from Buenos Aires and from abroad. Some new musical experiences also integrate house-electro influences. In the meanwhile the traditional milonga and especially the close embrace are still having a big success among young dancers. All this made once again Buenos Aires the Tango’s Mecca, attracting people from all around the world.

 
Lexicon

Milonga : a former argentinian dance looking like the polka and also influenced by african rhythms. Also synonym of tango ballroom.

Candombe : black percussion music from Uruguay and Argentina.

Porteno, portena : from Buenos Aires.

You want to learn more about the history of tango ? Read this comprehensive article http://www.history-of-tango.com/

 

 

As you will notice Mott is just a few steps from La Onda in the same block, at your right when leaving the house. You cannot miss its contemporary high window and its spectacular bar and stairs. An institution in the cuadra (block) it is open almost 24h. You can eat or have a drink in the deep lounge seats while listening to smart music being attended  by elegant and kind young male waiters some from Senegal. Their juices (licuados) are just delicious.

Maria Lancio is the owner and the chef. A personality with her dreadlocks, her look is as much incredible as her cooking. She is an artist. She makes what we call in France « la cuisine du marché » so to say she takes her inspiration from the fresh food of the day. We recommend her merluza negra, the best argentinian sea fish, not easy to find in town. She has great beaf meat too. Her salads are  full of inspiration and with plenty of different and surprising ingredients.


Have a look on the chicken salad recipe as described by Maria herself :