Located in the heart of the city between the Cours Mirabeau and the Carnot Boulevard, the District Mazarin  is one of the most typical and authentic part of Aix-en-Provence. Built in the XVII th Century, it has retained its aristocratic town-houses  called here  "hotel particulier".

 

It has been designed and built at the initiative of Michel Mazarin, brother of the famous Cardinal Mazarin, prime minister of Louis XIV. Appointed archbishop of Aix-en-Provence in 1645, he decided to change the city in order to make it more consistent with the new aesthetic codes of the time and with the security requirements. He pulled down the ancient fortifications to build a new residential district for the « noblesse de robe » ( the judiciary of the time) and the parliamentarians.

A set of plush mansions was built in the Italian Renaissance style then on trend. The construction of all houses was supervised by one and only architect, Jean Lombard, hence the remarkable visual coherence of the district. The old fortifications gave way to the current Cours Mirabeau. 
The plots were bought mostly by the noblesse de robe and parliamentarians. The rising class of merchants and craftsmen could also afford some part of the place. This has been therefore a « mixed » neighborhood so to speak, not only aristocratic but also " bourgeois."

This is of course a must in Aix and a major touristic attraction. However you will feel there the pulse of the city. Just take a seat at one of the many cafés outdoor and you will see cruising the whole of Aix-en-Provence : the élégantes and their Parisian look, bohemian chic, businessmen, students, pensioners, not to forget the Chinese tourists always grouped before the same façade.

Cours Mirabeau has a upper  and a lower side. An impressive mansion stands at the high side while the down side ends with the famous Rotonde fountain reflecting in the monumental showcase of the Applestore. Luxury and fashion boutiques, banks, art galleries, offices of notaries and law firms share the ground floors and sometimes entire buildings. You can also recognize the north side by its many restaurants. Try Les Deux Garçons or King René : they still have their period dining rooms. Do not hesitate to get in and take a look. Another "historic" restaurant, Antoine Côté Cour, is set in the yard of a beautiful mansion of the XVIII th Century. Booking is recommended if you want to have lunch, but you might as well enter the building and admire the yard.

Place d'Albertas looks like a miniature Paris Place des Vosges in the heart of Aix. It dates from the early eighteenth Century. Marquis d'Albertas, then first president of the Court of Auditors, decided to renovate his mansion dating from the sixteenth century. Wanting to clear the surroundings he bought and demolished the neighboring buildings. Later, his son had the idea to create on that space a small square on the model of the royal squares in Paris, facing his father’s mansion. He entrusted the work to the son of the architect who renovated his father’s house.

This elegant square surrounded by mansions forms an harmonious ensemble, which is easily understandable since all the buildings with the exception of the XVI th Century mansion, have been designed by a single architect.

We love the authenticity of the Place d’Albertas. The facades of two mansions have been restored, with great attention to original architecture and decoration, but the others are still in their juice. Even the pavement , a typical Provencal calade composed of small pebbles laid on slices appears to be vintage. Due probably to ground motion over time, it is a bit difficult to walk on.

The only heterogeneous element is the fountain. It was designed in 1912 by students of the School of Arts and Crafts of Aix. But in our opinion it respects in the spirit of the times and nicely integrates with the mansions.

You will enjoy the impressive calm of Place d’Albertas. Even tourists who walk there are more or less silent, perhaps impressed by the nobility of the place. One will literally breath the refined atmosphere of the aristocratic provencal eighteenth century. This is a break in the city center, completely out of time.

In 600 BC Phocaean introduced vine in France. It was in Marseille area. Provence is thus the historic cradle of the vine culture in France.

Settled on a strip of land 200 km large The Côtes de Provence include several terroirs divided into 3 main appellations: the Côtes de Provence, the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, and the newly introduced Coteaux Varois en Provence. The latest is growing fast and comes to titillate the older sisters.

La Calisanne is located in the heart of the Coteaux Varois en Provence. From the swimming pool you can see the mountainous limits of the appellation: the Bessillons at the North, the Sainte Beaume at the South.

Provence enjoys a dry and healthy climate, ideal for vineyards, so there is almost no need for chemical treatments. Most of Coteaux Varois, are organic and appreciated for their natural character. They are real value for money far from the speculative excesses of other french wines.

The closest domaine is the excellent Château Routas in Chateauvert, five minutes by car from the house in the direction of Barjols.

Ten minutes from the house towards Brignoles, in the hamlet of Gaëtans just before the crossroad with the National 7, you will find Les Annibals and the Domaine de Ramatuelle.

Do not forget either the Cave Cooperative de Bras in the main street of the village, which proposes the best of the local growers.

Driving 20 till 45 minutes you will discover many other treasures. We will introduce you to our favorites, without claiming at all to be exhaustive and by limiting us to the nearest to the property.

« Rosé » is the king in Provence so let’s start with it.

We can not talk about rosé without mentioning  Bandol. While not far, this seaside area does not properly belong to the Coteaux Varois. But the wines are exceptional and famous. You can find them in every supermarket around the property.

Let’s come back to the Coteaux Varois. We particularly appreciate the Rose des Vents Earl Baude , Domaine La Roquebrussanne. The vines of this area are processed without herbicide and without chemical fertilizer.

Let’s mention also the Pink Floyd by the Domaine de Miraval in Correns. The Domaine  was equipped with a sound studio where the famous band recorded an album, hence the name given to the rosé. Miraval is now the property of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie so you cannot visit the Domaine for privacy reasons as the couple frequently stays there. You can taste and buy the wines at the Cave des Vignerons de Correns. Please note that the Cave des Vignerons de Correns is located in Le Val, a village next to Bras.

We appreciate as well the rosé by the Chateau de La Gallinière in Trets. This is not strictly speaking a Coteau Varois but a Côte de Provence Sainte-Victoire, but it is located at the geographical limit of both appellations. It deserved the Gold Medal in 2011 at the Foire de Brignoles. As a typical rosé from Provence, it is a perfect match for aperitif and grillades. Like many Provence rosés it is quite alcoholic (14 °), and perfect for the feeling happy ...

For us white Coteaux Varois are at least as good as the rosés. We particularly appreciate the Château La Calisse and  not just because it is from Ponteves, the village that you can see from the pool and that sparkles at night to the left of the Petit Bessillon.

Château La Calisse is a delicate wine with a true personality. It is not cheap but it desserves its price.

Rose des Vents white is also very good with its subtle aromas of rose, it often stays on our table.

In Saint-Maximin, Domaine de Saint-Jean le Vieux also offers an excellent white. You can find the domaine’s boutique at the entrance of Saint-Maximin, coming from Bras driving the charming rural and winding road. Pay attention when going back after the tasting session...

Do you know the rolle? This is a very popular grape in Provence. We recommand the rolle of the Cave Cooperative de Bras. Its value for money is unbeatable. Dry, with its frank taste it goes along perfectly with appetizers, grilled fish and most of provençal dishes. A little more expensive, the same Cave’s AOC is also worthwhile.

Our favourite red Coteaux Varois

For a long time Provence red wines were despised. Tradition was focussed on the rosé and red wines with their high acidity were primarily used by local families as table wines. However fifteen years ago things started to change. The domaines were bought by new owners who enlisted professionals from other areas, reputable for their red wines like Burgundy. And the results followed.

Let us introduce you with our favorite: Chateau Trians from Néoules, not far from La Calisanne in the direction of Toulon. The terroir is located in some altitude and oriented to the north, a privilege of great French vineyards. It produces a sumptuous tannic red wine with a beautiful dark robe.

We also appreciate a lot the Château Margüi, round and subtly woody. The wines of Château Margüi are produced biodynamically, in the greatest respect for the soil and for the nature.

Not far from Château Margüi, Château La Lieue is also one of our favorites, although not always available. Most of the production is indeed exported in Canada. The owner’s father, Jean-Louis Vial, is a pionner of organic wines in Provence. The winery produces a red named Cuvée Vieux Carignan and made from old vines, with leather and musk aromas.

Beside Château La Lieue in Brignoles on the road to Cabasse you can find Château Margillière. This road runs along a of a beautiful valley fully dedicated to the vine. The domaines are just next to each other. So should you make one wine promenade, this is the one.

Nearer the house, The Cuvée Boisée de la Cave Cooperative de Bras is highly is also highly recommended.

Beside the domaines where it is better to make an appointment, the local restaurants, La Petite Maison de Bras and L’Aoûtée favour Coteaux Varois. The gastronomic restaurant L'Hostellerie de L’Abbaye de La Celle near Brignoles offers the best choice of  local wines. The sommelier will advise you of the subtle wine pairings.

The Abbey of La Celle has also a conservatory vineyard including 80 grape varieties. Concerts are organized there in the summer in the open, in an atmosphere stylishly relax. 

You can find almost all the wines by the Maison des Coteaux Varois in La Celle, next to the Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle.

La Cave des Vignerons de Correns located in Le Val near Bras is specialized in the organic wines from Correns. Stay with us, organic wines in Provence are now very good and Correns is a village dedicated to organic agriculture.

 

Located at the end of our village, on the road to Barjols, this charming restaurant  full of bucolic atmosphere is managed by a young couple trained in gastronomic restaurants as the Savoy Gordon Ramsay’s in London.

Light and sophisticated, the Mediterranean cooking is based on local products supplied by Ambard and Pihemgali’s farms’ vegetables from Bras.

Fresh fish comes from Martegaou at Saint-Maximin.

Other  organic  suppliers are the Farines de Bertrand in Châteauvert, Sophie Daune's goat's milk cheeses from Le Val.

The menu updated monthly offers nice surprises. The terrace in the garden is a delight during Summer evenings.,

Ask for the table under the mulberry tree. The wine list includes some good Côteaux Varois of the immediate surroundings. Better to book your table at : +330494040928. Price between 15 and 30 euros (excluding wines)


 

This restaurant located in the center of the village welcomes you in its beautiful typical Provencal vaulted room. The cooking is modern mediterranean with local wines. In summer, tables are set for a villagers dinner under the plane trees on the Sadi Carnot square facing the church. The service is fast and friendly. Caution: L’Aoûtée opens only on weekends (Thursday to Sunday) night. Reservations recommended.

L’Aoûtée. Place du 14 Juillet 83149 Bras. + 33 6 24 91 35 55.

In a minimalist and unceremoniously set up besides Utile supermarket, good pankakes generously garnished are waiting for you at Le Clovis. Whether you like traditional Breton crepes savory buckwheat flour or sweet tasty pancakes with wheat flour, they are tasty and home cooked with fresh products. You will also enjoy some great Kerné ciders. Try the kir Breton aperitif made ​​from cider and blackcurrant syrup. If you have any special requests such as a low salt diet, just tell the owner upon booking and he will be happy to customize your pancake.

Crêperie Le Clovis. Zone Artisanale La Brasque | Route Brignoles, 83149 Bras, France.

+ 33 498 05 30 36.

Pizzas to take away.

In the end of week evening you will find in the center of the village opposite the butcher a wide selection of richly laden pizzas made ​​from fresh products. The pizzaoiolo is none other than Pascal, the brother of our great, legendary butcher Felix.

Bras Pizza 8 Rue Jean Jaurès, 83149 Bras
Tel. : 04 94 69 96 10