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Our favourites in Aix-en-Provence

6/1/2015

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District Mazarin 

Located in the heart of the city between the Cours Mirabeau and the Carnot Boulevard, the District Mazarin  is one of the most typical and authentic part of Aix-en-Provence. Built in the XVII th Century, it has retained its aristocratic town-houses  called here  "hotel particulier".

 

Quartier Mazarin Fontaine des dauphins
Quartier Mazarin. Fontaine des Dauphins
It has been designed and built at the initiative of Michel Mazarin, brother of the famous Cardinal Mazarin, prime minister of Louis XIV. Appointed archbishop of Aix-en-Provence in 1645, he decided to change the city in order to make it more consistent with the new aesthetic codes of the time and with the security requirements. He pulled down the ancient fortifications to build a new residential district for the « noblesse de robe » ( the judiciary of the time) and the parliamentarians.

Not only an aristocratic neighborhood 

A set of plush mansions was built in the Italian Renaissance style then on trend. The construction of all houses was supervised by one and only architect, Jean Lombard, hence the remarkable visual coherence of the district. The old fortifications gave way to the current Cours Mirabeau. 
The plots were bought mostly by the noblesse de robe and parliamentarians. The rising class of merchants and craftsmen could also afford some part of the place. This has been therefore a « mixed » neighborhood so to speak, not only aristocratic but also " bourgeois."
Quartier Mazarin. Hotel particulier
Quartier Mazarin. Hotel Particulier
Aix-en-Provence. Architecture detail.
Aix-en-Provence. Architecture detail.



Cours Mirabeau 

This is of course a must in Aix and a major touristic attraction. However you will feel there the pulse of the city. Just take a seat at one of the many cafés outdoor and you will see cruising the whole of Aix-en-Provence : the élégantes and their Parisian look, bohemian chic, businessmen, students, pensioners, not to forget the Chinese tourists always grouped before the same façade.


Cours Mirabeau. Les Deux Garçons
Cours Mirabeau. Les Deux Garçons
Photo
Cours Mirabeau. Upper part
Cours Mirabeau has a upper  and a lower side. An impressive mansion stands at the high side while the down side ends with the famous Rotonde fountain reflecting in the monumental showcase of the Applestore. Luxury and fashion boutiques, banks, art galleries, offices of notaries and law firms share the ground floors and sometimes entire buildings. You can also recognize the north side by its many restaurants. Try Les Deux Garçons or King René : they still have their period dining rooms. Do not hesitate to get in and take a look. Another "historic" restaurant, Antoine Côté Cour, is set in the yard of a beautiful mansion of the XVIII th Century. Booking is recommended if you want to have lunch, but you might as well enter the building and admire the yard.

Place d’Albertas

Place d'Albertas looks like a miniature Paris Place des Vosges in the heart of Aix. It dates from the early eighteenth Century. Marquis d'Albertas, then first president of the Court of Auditors, decided to renovate his mansion dating from the sixteenth century. Wanting to clear the surroundings he bought and demolished the neighboring buildings. Later, his son had the idea to create on that space a small square on the model of the royal squares in Paris, facing his father’s mansion. He entrusted the work to the son of the architect who renovated his father’s house.

Hotel Particulier. Place d'Albertas
Hotel Particulier. Place d'Albertas
This elegant square surrounded by mansions forms an harmonious ensemble, which is easily understandable since all the buildings with the exception of the XVI th Century mansion, have been designed by a single architect.

We love the authenticity of the Place d’Albertas. The facades of two mansions have been restored, with great attention to original architecture and decoration, but the others are still in their juice. Even the pavement , a typical Provencal calade composed of small pebbles laid on slices appears to be vintage. Due probably to ground motion over time, it is a bit difficult to walk on.

Fontaine Place d'Albertas
Fontaine Place d'Albertas
The only heterogeneous element is the fountain. It was designed in 1912 by students of the School of Arts and Crafts of Aix. But in our opinion it respects in the spirit of the times and nicely integrates with the mansions.

You will enjoy the impressive calm of Place d’Albertas. Even tourists who walk there are more or less silent, perhaps impressed by the nobility of the place. One will literally breath the refined atmosphere of the aristocratic provencal eighteenth century. This is a break in the city center, completely out of time.

La Calisanne
http://www.les2garcons.fr/
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